STEW LEONARD’S MASTER MOZZARELLA MAKER OFFERS TIPS FOR ENJOYING THIS ARTISANAL DELICACY

NORWALK, Conn., June 4, 2007 – Making fresh mozzarella is an art; a skill that is handed down from generation to generation. At Stew Leonard’s food stores in Norwalk, Danbury and Newington, Connecticut, as well as Yonkers, New York, fresh mozzarella is one of the stores’ most popular items. Each store has master mozzarella makers who each make up to 500 pounds of mozzarella a day. Between all four stores, Stew Leonard’s sells six thousand pounds of mozzarella per week or three tons.

“What makes our mozzarella so popular is that we make it fresh all day long, right in front of the customer,” said Stew Leonard, Jr. “We always have fresh samples available for customers to taste. There is nothing like tasting fresh mozzarella after it has just been made and is still warm. It is irresistible.”

Originating in the countryside around Naples, mozzarella is traditionally made from the milk of water buffalo (mozzarella di bufala.) Mozzarella from buffalos’ milk is tangier, less sweet and has a richer texture due to the higher fat content of buffalos’ milk. In the United States, most mozzarella is made from cows’ milk, called fior di latte, and has a creamy, fresh milk flavor.

When Stew Leonard’s began making fresh mozzarella in their stores six years ago, Stew Leonard, Jr. hired a third generation mozzarella maker originally from Calabria, Italy, outside of Naples. Dominick Lustombo has been making fresh mozzarella since he was 11 years old, and learned his craft by watching his grandfather. Dominick, in turn, trained other Stew Leonard’s team members in the art of making fresh mozzarella.

To make mozzarella, a natural enzyme called rennet is added to milk and heated until the curds separate from the whey. The whey is then drained off. Boiling water is then poured over the curds, and using a large wooden panel, the curds are stirred until they begin to melt. As the water cools, it is strained out and more boiling water is added until the curd begins to pull so it has a string-like effect. The mozzarella maker must work quickly with the curd to achieve a consistent texture, so the cheese comes together in a single mass. While it is still hot, the curd is quickly stretched and folded, as in kneading bread dough, to press out air and water. Once the cheese takes on a porcelain/silky sheen, it's ready to be shaped into balls. Once formed into balls, it is placed in a brine solution (salted water) to soak until it is packed.

According to Joe DeBiase, Stew Leonard’s mozzarella maker in Newington, making mozzarella is all about texture and temperature. “If you don’t get the temperature of the water right, the mozzarella will come out rock-hard. If the water is too hot, the mozzarella will be soupy,” he says. When it comes to pulling and stretching the mozzarella, timing and touch are the key. “If the mozzarella is stretched too much or too little, the texture will not be right. If it is stretched for too long a time, it will be tough.”

Like any art, it is practice that makes perfect. Here are Joe’s tips for buying, storing and serving fresh mozzarella:

Buying
Freshly-made mozzarella should have a taffy-like texture. If buying a ball of mozzarella, it should be soft and moist. Avoid mozzarella that looks dried out or smells sour.
“The biggest factor when buying mozzarella is to purchase it freshly made that day, because fresh mozzarella should be used within five to seven days,” says Joe.

Storing
The best way to keep mozzarella fresh is to store it in the refrigerator in a container of cold water with a tablespoon of salt added to it. Salted mozzarella will keep for about one week; unsalted will keep for just a few days.

Storing
The best way to keep mozzarella fresh is to store it in the refrigerator in a container of cold water with a tablespoon of salt added to it. Salted mozzarella will keep for about one week; unsalted will keep for just a few days.

Serving
Ideally, mozzarella should be eaten the day it is purchased. To enjoy the true taste and texture, it should be served at room temperature. To achieve room temperature, place the cheese with the plastic wrap still on in warm water for 10 to 15 minutes before serving.

Mozzarella cheese not eaten the day or two after purchasing is best used for baking – such as in pizza or eggplant parmesan. To grate fresh mozzarella, place it in the freezer for about 20 minutes to firm it up a little.

The classic way to serve fresh mozzarella is with some fresh tomato, basil and olive oil. Here is a recipe with a little twist on this classic:

Mozzarella Caprese Salad
From Stew Leonards Winning Recipes Cookbook 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
2 tablespoons fresh cilantro, separated into leaves
1 clove garlic, minced
¼ teaspoon ground cumin
1/8 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 pints cherry or grape tomatoes, halved
½ pound fresh mozzarella cheese, cut into ½-inch cubes

In a large bowl, whisk together the vinegar, cilantro, garlic, cumin and salt. Whisk in the oil. Add the tomatoes and mozzarella and toss to coat well. Makes 6 servings.